April 2012

Lisa Kind - Editor

The Mane Objective | by Marco Pelusi


Haircoloring within the Multicultural Market

There are endless rewards for hair artists when coloring within the multicultural market.

As haircolorists, we must continually evolve and grow. One enormous area where this must occur is within the many cultures of our client base.

Embracing the challenges involved with different hair textures will allow you to make more money behind the chair. Perhaps the most vital element to remember is to maintain the quality and the integrity of the hair.

Multicultural hair textures can be tricky on their own, depending upon the most basic hair characteristics, such as porosity. Start with the most fundamental tool for your business: perform an extremely thorough client color consultation.

Is the hair over porous? What chemical treatments are currently present on the hair itself – a relaxer, a straightener, or a smoothing treatment? Frankly, if she doesn't currently have a texture treatment on her hair, now is the time to offer one anyway.

Seize the opportunity. If you don't know much about texture or smoothing services, get educated on what's happening out there so you'll be able to service this growing category of savvy clients. Always ask open-ended questions and do a comprehensive hair analysis to educate yourself on the type of hair you're dealing with. You will then know the best way to safely proceed with color.

Often times, multi-textured clients will have some kind (or several types) of chemical treatment present on their hair, potentially from years ago. If the hair feels over porous and chemically challenged – this is the perfect time to offer a demi-permanent color service.

You can often make the hair feel better and look healthier after a demi-color. Demi falls between semi-permanent and permanent haircolor. Semi-permanent color only lasts through several shampoos; whereas demi-permanent can last several weeks.

Does she wish to blend away a few grays, or try a little hint of red on her chemically treated hair? Does she wish to simply add some extra shine? All of these scenarios are possible within the demi-color genre. Additionally, demi-color can typically be performed on the same day as a smoothing treatment.

Demi-color is compatible with smoothing treatments in this manner, so capitalize on it. Offer multiple chemical services on the same day – if the hair is able to handle it safely. Beyond that, demi-color is a great way to introduce a multicultural client to the world of haircolor; and perhaps a great transition into permanent haircolor after you've established a relationship and the hair is in better condition.

Speaking of conditioning, when you first connect with a new multi-textured client, offer conditioning services. For example, she may want highlights or a lighter color. This is the perfect segue into a six-month plan of deep conditioning treatments at your salon and at home with products you recommend.

Prepare the client's hair for lighter color with conditioning services over several months. Educate your client on what's involved in the conditioning process. Does the hair require a strengthener? Or is the hair simply lacking moisture? Whatever the case may be, conditioning is an easy and instant add-on service for your multicultural clientele (or any client, for that matter).

It's up to you to determine how often your client needs to see you for conditioning treatments, and/or if you should send her home with conditioners to work with. This is where your professional expertise comes into play. However, if you feel a lighter color is possible and easy to achieve today, proceed with modified formulations and then follow up with a conditioning treatment. Porous hair lifts quickly, so you will want to utilize gentler products with less lift and gentler developers. Post-coloring is a great time to add-on a deep conditioning service.

Within your multicultural clientele, there are endless services you are able to offer as a hairstylist. The main point to remember is to respect the hair while coloring. Demi-permanent haircoloring and deep conditioning are the perfect services to offer your growing multicultural client base. It is in these ways that you are "maintaining the quality and integrity of the hair" when working with the multicultural market.

This market could end up being the most loyal and the most in need of good haircolor services so be on the lookout and get educated on what's right for any type of hair.

Marco Pelusi is globally recognized as a haircolor trainer and platform artist. Marco Pelusi Hair Studio, Inc. was named Best Hair Color in Los Angeles 2009 by KTTV Fox11’s “myfoxla Hot List” competition. Pelusi created the Marco Collagen Color Guard HairCare System, the collagen system developed for color and chemically treated hair. For more information, visit www.marcopelusi.com.



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